Journey to a “Better” Life

This blog post has been on my mind for quite some time but I’ve been struggling to find the best way to talk about the issue. I’m still not sure I will be as eloquent as I would like, but I’m going to try.

Growing up in the USA, references to immigration, or “illegal immigration” as its typically called in the media, usually relate to people coming into the USA from either Mexico or countries in South/Central America. For me, whether due to naïveté or just lack of exposure, this was really my entire viewpoint of immigration. So when I arrived in Senegal and started to truly understand my surroundings, I was surprised to find that there is such a pervasive immigration movement in West Africa, mainly to Western Europe.

I would venture that every single person in my village of approx. 700 could name at least 1 person living in Spain, France, or Italy. They could probably also give you a list of people they know currently on their way.

I’ve struggled my entire Peace Corps service thus far trying to decide how I feel about this issue of immigration. I’ve circulated through different feelings of the people leaving Senegal as selfish or reckless or lazy. But the day illegal immigration became personal for me I realized that, at the base of it all, it’s usually about HOPE.

One day in mid-January 2015, my host cousin Iboudabou (E-boo-da-boo), left his village and family to begin the long journey to Italy. He left in the cover of darkness, telling only his mother that he was leaving for fear (and probably the reality) that his older brothers would force him to stay. Iboudabou is around 16 years old and was enrolled in school and performing really well when he quit to make the journey. 

Iboudabou (far right) with his older brother Hamay (left) & friend

It scared my entire family when we found out he had left, and our lengthy greetings have now been amended to regularly ask if anyone has news from him. In the beginning days of his trip, Iboudabou would often call my other host cousin Tidiane to give updates on his whereabouts. Tidiane would then come over & I would pull out the world map in the back of my planner and we would map out his route. Tambacounda, Senegal – Bamako, Mali – Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso – Agadez, Niger – Sabha, Libya – Tripoli, Libya

Iboudabou's brothers (Lamine & Tidiane) & his mom with my parents

Frequent radio reports of boats of migrants, mainly from West Africa, sinking on the trip to Italy and killing almost everyone aboard gave us reason for concern. Therefore, Iboudabou has paused his journey and is currently working in Tripoli, Libya, still hoping to make the journey across water soon.

He is just one of many people in my area of Senegal who are currently on the trail or leaving village to try and search for a better life. There is so much hope. Yet as someone who is blessed to live what I think all of the Senegalese would view as a “better life”, I tend to have a more cynical view.

My host brother's baby, Amadou

Most of the Senegalese migrants, if they do make it to Western Europe, will end up as low-paid laborers - washing dishes, driving cabs, selling wares on the streets - living together with other people from Senegal to drive down costs in the hopes of sending as much money back home as possible. And the pressure from family back home can be unbearable. That family likely does not understand the substantial increase in cost of living in places like Madrid or Paris, and thus don’t understand when you don’t send them millions of cfa (the Senegalese currency) every month or don’t have any money to send them when asked. They live without getting to see their families until they are fortunate enough to receive official residency documentation, and even then can only afford to come back for visits every 2-3 years. My oldest host brother lives in Spain and has 5 children with his wife. His wife and children all live in my compound, including his 9-month-old son who was conceived on his last visit back, & whom he won’t see for at least another year.

These are some of the challenges faced by those trying to provide better lives for their families. But these challenges only get to be faced if they stay in the country upon arrival. If you’ve been following any of the immigration-related news in the EU recently, the EU is experiencing unprecedented numbers of immigrants to places all over, to such a capacity that they will not be able to handle all of the people. Many possibilities are being discussed for how to handle this immigration issue, but what is fairly certain is that not all groups will be treated equally. Those considered “refugees”, fleeing persecution of some kind and seeking safety, will likely be considered differently from those considered “migrants”. The Senegalese fall into this latter category – they are not fleeing persecution of any kind, but rather are economic migrants in search of a better financial situation. If 2 immigrants are caught and only 1 can stay, I believe the migrant will get sent home every time. It’s in these thoughts that this issue feels personal to me now, thinking of my cousin Iboudabou and the risks he is taking with his life for the life of others, just to potentially get turned back at the entrance to the promised land.

Needless to say, I understand (as best as I possibly can) the desire these people have to make better lives for themselves. But as I said, I also struggle with the way those lives are being sought. Senegal is still very much lacking economically, and I often think what could happen to the development of this country if people stopped leaving to try and make money in other places, and instead focused their efforts on making Senegal itself more productive from the inside.

Take, for example, the solar panel my family has on the roof of our building thanks to my host brother in Spain/host uncle in France. It’s great that we have a solar panel, but the light bulbs available for purchase in this country are of such shoddy quality that often the light produced is still so meager is hardly seems useful. Money sent back to Senegal from those living abroad accounts for 12% of Senegal’s GDP (Wall Street Journal – see link below)!  That doesn’t even include the material goods sent back, but sometimes the infrastructure here is so weak that it can’t support those goods anyway. And how will that infrastructure improve if Senegal’s young & motivated are so disappointed with the opportunities in their own country that they flock to other places in search of a better life?

I, of course, don’t have answers to this question, but I think this is one of the biggest challenges facing Senegal as it strives to become a developed nation. It is certainly an issue that every Peace Corps volunteer is familiar with here whether personally or anecdotally. I am moved by the hope these migrants have and their unwavering belief that God will deliver for them, but wrestle with the thought that Senegal will never truly develop if it keeps hemorrhaging people. 

Back in early June, an article was published in the Wall Street Journal about this particular issue in Senegal. The article actually focuses on a town in the region where I live and provides many more anecdotes & pictures. The path they illustrate is almost identical to that traveled by my cousin. If this interests you, please check it out here – http://www.wsj.com/articles/young-men-in-senegal-join-migrant-wave-despite-growing-prosperity-at-home-1434127244

I’ve never had such a personal connection to immigration before, but I am fearful every time I hear my cousin Iboudabou’s name whispered in hushed tones, anticipating the worst news possible. For now, he is safe & on the trail for his better life. Pray for his safety and the safety of all the others like him.

Iboudabou & his younger brother Ousman

Thanks for reading.

Peace & love,

Lindsay